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By Joe Sixpack
Posted on Aug. 15, 2008 on Joe
Sixpack
WATER, MALT, hops, yeast
. . . and tomatoes?
Beer has come a long way
since the Bavarian beer purity law established the four
basic ingredients of beer. Nowadays, anything goes:
pumpkin, cherry, chocolate, even chipotle chili peppers
have found their way into bottles of our favorite adult
beverage.
This summer, brewers have
pushed the envelope even further. Beer shelves have
welcomed new brews with flavors of lime, banana, blueberry
and, strangely enough, crème brulee.
Part of the explosion in
new flavors is due simply to experimentation by no-holds-barred
craft brewers whose first instinct is to push the envelope
on traditional beer styles. With hops prices going through
the roof, some of them are turning to other ingredients
- fruit and spices - for added kick.
More notably, though, America's
big guys are dabbling like mad scientists, too. They've
learned that many of their potential customers - especially
women - are no longer satisfied with the flavor of mainstream
American lager.
Like 'em or lump 'em, this
new generation of flavors is part of a remarkable evolution
that, in just a few short years, has redefined what
a beer can be. Here's a sampling:
Bud Light Lime. This
is Anheuser-Busch's answer to Miller Chill,
which was basically Miller's answer to all those Corona
bottles with a lime wedged into the neck. It's reportedly
A-B's most popular new beer since Michelob Ultra.
It has a bigger lime flavor
than Chill, with a tingly fizz that's geared to the
soda pop set.
Budweiser Chelada
with Clamato. You know how, on the morning
after, your second Bloody Mary just sits there for an
hour, melting the ice? It seemed like a good idea at
the time, but by now it's 1 in the afternoon, your headache
is mostly gone, the Phillies are on the tube and you're
ready for a beer. You suck on the cocktail straw one
last time and your mouth fills with a watery, lightly
alcoholic version of V-8.
That's what Bud Clam tastes
like.
Next time, I'll kick it up
a notch with Tabasco and try it without the hangover.
Southern
Tier Crème Brulee Stout. Pour a glass of this
imperial milk stout, and you know what's coming before
your first sip. You're swamped by a HUGE waft of vanilla,
immediately sending you back to that afternoon you swiped
a sip from mom's bottle of (70 proof) vanilla extract.
Besides all that vanilla,
it's made with lactose sugar, crystal malt and candy
sugar, which gives it that crackling, bitter burn caramel
taste you enjoy in a perfectly torched crème brulee.
Unfortunately, this is beer,
not dessert, and I couldn't swallow more than three
or four sips. Southern Tier brewer Phin DeMink warned
me, "It's the kind of beer you should share with a couple
of friends over dessert."
I took him literally. I poured
the rest of the bottle into a pan, reduced it over a
low flame and ladled it onto a dish of bananas and pineapple.
Wild Blue. Most
blueberry beers offer only a slight hint of fruit -
a fresh, mellow aroma to remind you of ripe berries.
This lager grabs you by the neck and forces you headfirst
into a vat of smashed fruit and won't let you up till
you're blue in the face.
It reminded me of a melted
grape Popsicle.
Made by Blue Dawg Brewing
of Baldwinsville, N.Y., Wild Blue is actually a stealth
label from Anheuser-Busch. At 8 percent alcohol, it's
as strong as A-B's Hurricane High Gravity
malt liquor.
Bananatana.
Made with bananas and sultana grapes by Holland's Brouwerij
Drie Horne, it sounds like a Martha Stewart kitchen
disaster. I mean, bananas in beer?
But think again. Think about
that German hefeweizen that you like so much, with its
hallmark banana aroma produced by yeast fermentation.
Here, the brewer uses real
bananas, and the flavor is in the finish, delicate and
not overwhelming. It reminded me of a fine saison whose
peppery bite had been replaced by a peeling fruit.
Congrats
to Fred Kline of Coatesville, who brought home a silver
medal from the American Homebrewers Association national
homebrew competition, the largest in the world. Kline,
the sole medalist from Pennsylvania, won for his homemade
weizen beer.
"Joe Sixpack" by Don Russell appears weekly
in Big Fat Friday. For more on the beer scene in Philly
and beyond, visit www.joesixpack.net.
Send e-mail to joesixpack@phillynews.com.
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