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By Joe Sixpack
Posted on Oct. 10, 2008 on Joe
Sixpack
ROLLING
DOWN Maximillianstrasse in downtown Munich last week
aboard a tram stocked with cases of Paulaner
Hefe-weizen, a buffet of fatty Bavarian delicacies,
an accordion player and a quartet of women in cleavage-enhancing
dirndl dresses, my beer-drinking pal, Mark, nudged me
and marveled:
"Imagine this in Philly."
Dream on.
Philadelphia makes a great
case as America's best beer-drinking city, but it could
be even better. After a weekend at Oktoberfest as a
guest of the Paulaner brewery, I'm back with a bunch
of ideas lifted from the pros in Munich.
Take those beer trolleys for
example. Somehow I doubt we'll ever persuade SEPTA to
turn the Route 15 into a draft line. But the tram I
rode was not a public route, either.
Instead, my Munich ride - conducted
with the blessings of the city and its transit agency
- was an official sight-seeing tour of the city's historic
landmarks.
Someone, Mark suggested after
a gulp from his stein, should launch a Philly beer tour
aboard one of those goofy Fairmount trolleys, load it
with soft pretzels, cheesesteaks and local beer, and
take visitors for a ride.
Sure, there are some state
alcohol rules that would have to be changed. But if
Philly is honestly proud of its beer heritage, it should
find a way to share that with tourists.
The more Mark and I guzzled,
the more ideas we came up with:
Upgrade
the beer selection at the airport.
Munich's airport features a
beer garden in a spacious, fresh-air concourse, plus
countless bars serving fresh glasses of wheat beer.
The souvenir shops carry beautiful souvenir gift boxes
of Bavarian beer, glassware and brewery garb.
Philadelphia? There are no
last-minute gift packs of beer available in airport
shops. And if someone wants a taste of the locals, it's
awfully hard to find. Jet Rock, with its dozens of taps,
is disappearing. And the Independence Brewpub has been
replaced by an overpriced wine bar.
Other than
Yuengling Lager, the only local beer
I found at the terminal was Victory HopDevil
at Chickie's & Pete's.
Serve pretzels
at bars.
In Munich, big, soft, salty
pretzels dished up with yummy mustard are a ubiquitous
feature of beer gardens. They soak up enough beer to
keep you going for hours.
Yo, our soft pretzels are every
bit as good. And they're certainly better than greasy
chips, or those seeds and stems they're serving at taverns
these days.
Don't skimp
on the foam.
There is nothing more attractive
in a beer glass than a properly formed collar of suds
rising above the rim. I don't know if it's the German
draft systems or what, but even the most pedestrian
lager is served with a perfect head.
In Philly, most bartenders
take pains to reduce the head - perhaps out of fear
that patrons will complain about short pours after the
foam dies. The solution is bigger glassware, with markings
that indicate a full pour.
Hire barmaids
with big, um, biceps.
I love Philly's female servers.
Every one of 'em. But I got an absolute rush when Helga
paraded up to my table with her fists grabbing 10 -
yes, 10 - full glass liters of Oktoberfestbier.
You know how much a liter of
beer weighs? Four-and-a-half pounds. Do the math, then
consider that, in four hours, Mark and I stared in amazement
as Helga hustled up and down a flight of steps at least
20 times with a full set of mugs.
Open an
authentic beer garden.
I doubt Philly will ever support
a place the size of Munich's 2,000-seat Hofbrauhaus
beer hall. Outside of sporting and music events, we
don't gather in crowds of that size just to hoist glasses.
But we deserve at least one
decent German bar. I hear there's one headed for South
Street, and that's good news.
I have an even better location:
Reading Terminal Market.
The knuckleheads who run that
place should upgrade the market's current so-called
beer garden immediately. It's a low-grade dive that
scares away visitors. And it's a travesty that one of
the city's premier tourist destinations does not serve
any local craft beer.
Clean up the joint, put soft
pretzels on the tables, pour the foam and hire some
waitresses with big biceps.
"Joe Sixpack" by Don Russell appears weekly in Big Fat
Friday. For more on the beer scene in Philly and beyond,
visit www.joesixpack.net.
Send e-mail to joesixpack@phillynews.com.
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