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By Joe Sixpack
Posted on June 5, 2009 on Joe
Sixpack
ASSUMING the world's scientists
have this whole global warming thing right, I figure
we've got two years, three at the most, till we're all
wearing SPF 100 and it's crocodiles, not moose, that
Sarah Palin is hunting up there in Alaska.
Thankfully, the world's beer
makers have already sprung into action.
Greenhouse brew, aka summer
beer, is the most popular seasonal of the year. Hefeweizen,
fruit beer, blond ale, witbier, helles, Kolsch and pilsner
- these are all classic summer styles, brewed to accomplish
the No. 1 goal of beer: refreshment.
Typically light in color and
body, one easy quaff of these beers will clear the sweat
from an afternoon behind the lawnmower, and a sixpack
will have you sleeping with the air conditioning on
low.
Here's three notable styles
this summer.
Watermelon beer
Don't laugh - the few I've
tasted are surprisingly cooling and fun, bringing to
mind a picnic in the shade on a lazy afternoon. (Just
remember to spit out the seeds!)
The most widely distributed
is Hell or High Watermelon Wheat from
21st Amendment in San Francisco, available locally in
cans.
Brewer Shaun O'Sullivan said
the idea for the beer came from an old homebrew recipe
of his co-founder, Nico Freccia. "I thought it was ridiculous
at first," said O'Sullivan. "C'mon, watermelon beer?
It was the same reaction anyone would've had."
The secret is in the ale's
fermentation, which leaves behind little residual sugar.
It starts out with a fruity aroma, with only a touch
of sweetness, and finishes dry, so you're eager to take
another sip.
There aren't many watermelon
beers on the shelves, yet, but look also for Thomas
Hooker's More Than A Mouthful Watermelon Ale
(Connecticut), with an even stronger melon
aroma, and draft Watermelon Lager from
Roy Pitz (Chambersburg, Pa.).
Hefeweizen
American-brewed hefes are notoriously
uneven, rarely matching the fresh, aromatic quality
of the original Bavarians. Many beer experts simply
call ours "American wheat ales" because they bear little
resemblance to the likes of classics from Germany's
Paulaner and Schneider breweries.
Sierra Nevada's new offering,
Kellerweis, may be the closest to the
real thing.
Its brewers believe the trick
is open fermentation, a process that is the hygiene
opposite of the typical sealed and sanitized brewhouse.
In this traditional method, the beer bubbles away in
large, uncovered vats or tubs, protected from bacterial
infection beneath its thick mass of foam.
Sierra Nevada says the process
gives yeast - which is the backbone of any hefeweizen
- the necessary room "to build layers of flavors and
aroma that would otherwise be impossible."
Kellerweis is soft and mellow,
with the appetizing banana and citrus aromas that give
the style its reputation in Munich as a breakfast beer.
Forget orange juice; grab a glass of this cloudy, unfiltered
ale when the thermometer hits 90 at 9 a.m.
Double
white
Witbier, or white beer, had
been extinct for a decade in the mid-1960s when a Belgian
milkman-turned-brewer named Pierre Celis revived the
cool, spicy, famously cloudy wheat beer once made on
farms east of Brussels. That beer became Hoegaarden
White, and it spawned 100 lemon-topped sons, from American-made
Celis White to Coors-made Blue Moon.
With witbier gone mainstream,
a growing number of breweries are amping up the style
with more malt to create double white. It's just as
hazy with a pinch of spice and a wallop of alcohol that
will lay you out on your chaise lounge.
The newest, just in time for
Father's Day, is Honey Do Wit (get
it?) from Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant. Flavored
with orange peel, coriander and orange blossom honey,
it's sweet, a bit fruity, tremendously refreshing and
decidedly strong at 9.5 percent alcohol.
Other notable double whites
are bottled by Great Divide (Colorado), Southampton
Ales & Lagers (New York), River Horse (New Jersey)
and Boston Beer (Massachusetts).
Here's a sixpack of other summer
newbies:
Widmer
Drifter Pale Ale (Oregon): Very easy drinking
with assertive, citruslike Summit hops.
Weyerbacher Zotten
(Easton): A hoppy Belgian pale ale, lower
in alcohol than the brewery's famously "big" beers.
Spicy and full flavored, ideal for the beach.
Harpoon UFO White
Ale (Massachusetts): An unfiltered wheat
made with orange peel, coriander and the relatively
new Apollo hops variety.
Magic Hat Wacko!
(Vermont): A full-flavored oddball from Vermont, made
with beet sugar.
Nakhon (Thailand):
A sweet pilsner brewed with jasmine rice.
Yards Saison
(Philadelphia): Yards has redesigned one of its oldest
styles, creating a spicier, beautifully refreshing
ale made with pilsner malt and Belgian candy sugar.
Pairs well with barbecue.
"Joe Sixpack" by Don Russell appears weekly in Big Fat
Friday. For more on the beer scene in Philly and beyond,
visit www.joesixpack.net.
Send e-mail to joesixpack@phillynews.com.
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