ONE
THOUSAND, four hundred sixty-eight beers left their
mark on me in 2007, and I've already forgotten a bunch
of 'em. Here's what I can remember.
Prices
skyrocket
Beer money isn't just pocket change anymore, and I'm
not talking just about those pricey bottles of premium
craft brews.
In '07, brewers around
the world suddenly faced big increases in the cost
of raw materials: glass for bottles, fuel for delivery
trucks, malt for the suds and even paper for labels.
The price of hops alone jumped 500 percent. A case
of Bud is closing in on the $20 mark.
Both the wallet and the
palate took a hit. Many small brewers found hops were
unavailable at any price, forcing some to halt production
of some of their hugely popular bitter ales, like
imperial India pale ale.
2008 outlook:
Victory HopDevil Lite.
Miller,
Coors tie the knot
As a traditionalist, I'd normally blather about the
grand brewing heritage that will be lost when these
two legendary beer companies begin sharing the same
letterhead next year. But Miller sacrificed its Milwaukee
integrity years ago when it climbed into the sack
with Philip Morris, while Coors damaged its all-American
DNA the minute it started doing business with the
Molson Canadians.
So what we're left with
is a competition-killing corporate merger intended
to cut costs (i.e., jobs) and line the pockets of
fat cats while Anheuser-Busch continues to stomp down
the grocery aisle.
2008 outlook:
MillerCoors LiteLight.
Finally, some new brewpubs
Triumph Brewing opened
with a splash in Old City, and Dock Street came back
from the dead in the Cedar Park section of West Philly.
The former is pouring remarkable lagers but looking
for a niche with its menu; the latter doesn't have
its legs yet, thanks mostly to the lack of a permanent
brewer.
Still,
those openings more than offset the summer's dreadful
demise of Independence Brewing at Reading Terminal
Market.
2008 outlook:
The owners of New Jersey's defunct Heavyweight Brewing
have announced plans to open a brewpub in Mt. Airy.
Craft
beer explodes
For the third straight year, American microbreweries
outpaced every other segment of the booze biz - spirits,
wine, imports, mass-produced domestics, even Bacardi
Breezers. Small brewery sales surged at more than
five times the growth of the mainstream stuff, according
to the Brewers Association.
The growth has pushed the
big guys - especially Anheuser-Busch - to step up
their efforts to grab a piece of the action.
Last year, the Borgs from
St. Louis assimilated Old Dominion and Fordham. Even
Pabst got into the game, picking up distribution rights
for New York's tiny Southampton Brewing.
Locally, the Big Three's
wholesalers, frustrated by those flat sales, continued
to add smaller specialty brands to their portfolios.
As the year closed, Origlio Beverage, the city's Coors
wholesaler, struck a deal to purchase distribution
rights for a wide variety of small brands (Dogfish
Head, Legacy and Weyerbacher, plus many Belgians)
that had been held by King of Prussia's Kunda Beverage.
2008 outlook:
Michelob Ultra Barleywine.
Yards
Brewing splits
Too early to know how this one will play out, but
if all goes right:
- Yards founder
Tom Kehoe will have his new, bigger brewhouse
up and running on Delaware Avenue in a couple
of months.
- Former partners
Bill and Nancy Barton will have kegs from their
new Philadelphia Brewing Co. in bars about the
same time.
2008 outlook:
More beer for everyone.
The
best new beers of the year (in no particular order):
1. Nøgne Ø Dark
Horizon (Norway): An imperial stout with
16 percent alcohol (at $25 a bottle), this baby set
the pace for a new wave of Scandinavian beers.
2. Goose Island
Matilda (Illinois): A surprisingly authentic
Orval Trappist ale knockoff.
3. Stoudt's Smooth
Hoperator (Adamstown): Maybe the best new
Pennsylvania beer since Yards reformulated its Philadelphia
Pale Ale: a hybrid, hoppy double bock.
4. Avery/Russian
River Collaboration Not Litigation (Colorado/California):
Two small brewers with the same brand name (Salvation)
mixed their suds and produced a singularly outstanding
Belgian-style strong ale.
5. Dogfish Head
Red & White (Milton, Del.): Huge, fruity
layers of flavor in a Belgian-style white beer that's
been doused with pinot noir juice and aged in wine
barrels.
6. Schneider &
Brooklyner Hopfen-Weisse (Germany/New York):
Another collaboration, this one matching yeasty Bavarian
wheat goodness with assertive American hops.
"Joe Sixpack" by Don Russell appears weekly
in Big Fat Friday. For more on the beer scene in Philly
and beyond, visit www.joesixpack.net.
Send e-mail to joesixpack@phillynews.com.